Tuesday, November 18, 2008

We were in Tonga, how was that possible?

After a few days of getting entertained by David's family, the real trip began at LAX. It was quite a sad goodbye, and we still didn't realize where were we going.

Tonga is a far far away Kingdom, the only surviving monarchy in the Pacific and one of the last ones in the world, a island in the middle of the open ocean between Fiji and Samoa, tiny and unknown (which made it very attractive to our exploring nature). I don't know why or how, but we requested it to be placed in our flight itinerary. We were probably hoping that we were going to find a hidden pacific paradise awaiting four our budget travelling expectations. 2 weeks and a half was our choice, our plans included diving, snorkeling, hiking, swimming, drinking, eating, taking pictures, etc...

Even though the population in Tonga consists of only 101,000, the airport held a big crowd waiting for their visitors from overseas. We felt immediately welcomed by the tropical ambiance and the warmth humidity of the air. We were happy the flight didn't seem so long but our smiles didn't last long. As we tried to go through immigration, the officer informed us that Mexicans require visa, therefore I might have to be deported to Auckland, NZ. My eyes started to tear, I had never had any problems to get into any country, I felt so guilty for relying on the outdated Mexican Foreign Relations Ministry's website to do my travelling requirements research, I chanted, I worried, I felt anxious.

Almost an hour later everything seemed to serve my chants, they let me in for a 30 dollars fee, the officer appeared more chatty and told me that it wasn't the first time this happened with Mexicans. The only one reason they let me in was because the next flight was to NZ and I needed a visa to get there as well. We made a friend at the customs line, he even invited us to a party, as we walked out of the airport to figure out how to call the guest house where we wanted to stay, the owner was already waiting for us.

His name was Toni. Toni is an old British fella, and he likes to complain, and I must say that complaining is really what he was born for. With a fine British accent and a straight tone in his voice Toni went off, and off, and off...As hours went by, we became very familiar with Tongan. Their activities consist of going to church, eating, yelling at each other, sleeping, and going to church. Since it was Easter our only option was to go Tongan, which appeared to be the only one thing possible for tourists or as they call us "Palangas".

Toni explained to us that Tongans are very traditional and lazy, all of them are very religious and their biggest entertainment is for men to hold Kava sessions almost every night. Kava is a drink made out of Kava root which original process of preparation should be through fermentation triggered by teenagers' saliva.

We committed ourselves to try to find out about activities in Tonga, this commitment eventually became in a consistent effort to get Toni to say that something was possible...but no! it wasn't possible. They had Kayaks, but they were broken in half; there were SCUBA centers, but they wouldn't answer the phone, and even if they did Toni would be surprised if their equipment was in conditions to be used; we could take a Ferry to Ha'apai or Vavua which was terribly expensive, and even if we took it probably we wouldn't be able to be back inTongatapu on time to take our plane to Fiji because you never know when things are really going to happen.

But that wasn't the strangest thing at all, what was amusing was the fact that Toni left England 18 years ago to go to Tonga after he read an article in the Reader's Diggest, and never left. He doesn't like Tongans and Tongans don't like him, the reason, he explains is "of course they don't like me, I have a dollar in my pocket". Supposedly, Tongans live on others' expenses, if they eat they have to offer food to everybody around them, if they have money they have to give it away (but mostly they are forced) reason for which no one is motivated to work. Even if you show them the money, they wouldn't do it, it is not possible because they have to rest and even if they didn't have to rest everything was closed.

After two days of heavy rain and of slowly becoming insane by the heat, mosquitoes, and impossibility to do anything, we changed our ticket to Fiji for 2 weeks earlier, that was the only one possible thing in Tonga.

Funny facts about Tonga.

- There is a big population of "Fakaletes" (fake ladies) which are transvestite. The funny part is that families decide to start dressing their boys as women at a very early age just because they need more women.

- The beautiful people are the big people. As David said "Tongans are huge, if they are not tall they are fat" but mostly they are both.

- Their king doesn't like them, he has an old British taxi because it has blinds to avoid his people from seeing him and himself from seeing his people. (this is actually a very sad fact)

- It is an offense to reject food or Kava, David might have eaten dog.

The Dummies' Guide for a Culture Shock

This is Amy, my sister in law, she has lyme disease. This infection has made herself and the family to start a hard to win fight not only against her condition, but also against the lousy health care American system.

After a few years of going from one diagnosis to another, she finally was expected to be put in the right track to get the "right treatment" that could help her defeat the lyme bacteria. Many doctors, medicines, and lots of pain later, she found out about a place far far away that could give her and the family hope once again. The Stem Cell transplant being a more sensible, yet unusual procedure for the Western World, was to be held in New Delhi, India.

In this city, where poverty is a huge issue and where the air quality has caused many of its inhabitants to suffer from various lung, liver, genetic, and lung abnormalities, Amy is now receiving the treatment that will save her life way faster than in her home country. For more information regarding lyme disease and the procedure, please visit:
http://healthcarehacks.com/

So, from moving out of NYC, flying into Florida, and right before starting a long journey around the world with David, I came all the way to the other side of the world to see the miracle. After 2 airplanes, 2 dramamines, and 14 hours, I landed in New Delhi, and I wish I knew...

Lesson # 1 Before any move, always look behind...
And to the front, also left and right, ah! don't forget behind again.
Everything starts at the immigration line. If you see somebody walking so close to you that it seems they might be trying to go ahead of you, I assure you it is because they are not aware of you being there. My advice is to start gagging, coughing, or simply let them go first (you might have to let the whole line go ahead if you go for this option though).

For some reason everybody was waiting for their luggage cramped at the same spot along a 300 ft carrusel, making no sense at all I walked past the crowd and waited at a clear area. Finally I got my bag, but I hadn't learned my lesson and walked without looking right behind me; a very smily looking lady decided it was the best for her cart to be parked 1 inch behind my feet.

Lesson # 2 Run after your Luggage...
If you want to see it again, apparently (according to rumors) it is common that if you let somebody take your luggage you won't see it again. My parents in law seemed to have no problem with the driver they hired to grab my bag, and waited until the driver was out of sight to let me know about this urban myth, it was quite a workout!

Lesson # 3 Welcome to the land of Senseless Actions
Do not expect anybody to have common sense, from my experience this is how I reached to this conclusion:

No lanes in traffic, no side mirrors in cars, cars going in all directions on one way streets, bicycles pulling broken motorcycles with a little cart, 5 persons in one tiny motorcycle, people mopping the floor with black water and sweeping it afterwards, they also empty the garbage can with their bare hands instead of taking the whole bag, a yoga instructor teaching parapelegic patients saying "now stand up and separate your legs", guys wearing women's jeans, and men trying to hit on girls while two of them grab hands...I'll stop there or my hands will be sore after I am done typing.



Lesson # 4 Cover your mouth, nose, and be ready to chill.
When you take a taxi or a rick-shaw don't only bring your camera, also someone to talk with or a book, the reason is the amazingly long lasting red lights combined with dense traffic and I promise that I might be underestimating the time when I say red lights can last as long as 15 min. To complete the experience is the "fog", which is actually hard core polluted air, but still makes it difficult to see far away.


Lesson # 5 Get loose and Cooperate
Going to a temple or anywhere where they charge to access means you'll be thoroughly searched twice and when I say thoroughly, I mean it. This added to the fact that Indian culture has no sense of privacy at all gives your life a new purpose. Just close your eyes and imagine it is not happening, especially if you decide to go for a full body massage and you are totally against parts of your body slamming, they'll try to help you get undress and to even shower you if you let them. Therefore, if you are a bit too shy just get herbal teas for relaxation instead of an appointment at a spa for an ayurvedic treatment.


Lesson # 5 Take pictures of Cows Instead of Beggars
Some people will be thrill if you take their picture, they'll even pose for you, but some others will try to charge you, that's why I kind of started worshiping cows as well. In India, cows crowd the streets just like any other person, they won't charge for their picture being taken because they are just happy eating garbage.

If you still want to people watch you better memorize this: naheen for beggers, and bargain only 1/3 of the price.

Lesson # 6 Use Body Language
If people can't understand you when you speak English, I assure you they won't understand if you yell English. Let's be fair, even though English is the universal language, it doesn't mean everybody should understand you, so you better start practicing your charades skills and have fun with it.


Lesson # 7 Smoker? then you'll save money
Being from Mexico City means that I breathed the equivalent to 2 packs of cigarettes a day up until I moved away. I am afraid of finding out what is the equivalent in Delhi, but if I was a smoker I would definitely save money on the nicotine patch and quit for good, i don't think withdrawal symptoms would be an issue.

Once you have heartened these recommendations, be ready to enjoy one of the most mystical places in the world, from the beauty and magic on most people's smiles to the unexplainable overall improvement you'll feel in you mind and body once you get off the airplane. I am certain good vibes are constant in every part of India and you'll have an opportunity to love who you are, where you come from, and will find beauty in little things we commonly forget about in our regular lives. To see more of Delhi: http://www.flickr.com/photos/tachora/

Tuesday, December 25, 2007

Thanks to New York


One year and a half ago I was hoping to be a in my way to become a newyorker, I can't tell in which way but a black coat and a very short haircut were part of the concept. It has been already 1 year into our "big city" experience and I have a black coat and a short haircut, but the newyorker transformation had to be canceled without reschedule date.

I couldn't put together in one sentence all the reasons for which I did not fit in NY even though I could talk shit, cut people off walking on the streets, race to get a spot in a subway car, walk for 20 blocks and realize that I was either on my cellphone or looking at the floor all the way, and get into a fight over a taxi; idiots require more than all these characteristics put together to become what reigns on the streets of this city.

It is not easy to express these kind of thoughts about this place, the streets are beautiful! During the summer the city is covered with life and colors, the smell in the air gives you energy and you feel like being part of every activity you see posted in the summer recommendations of the Time Out Magazine; during the winter the snow gives NY a nostalgic phase, you walk through the same parks amazed at how different everything looks without so much green. Bars and restaurants look inviting with their cozy appearance, and Christmas lights fill the night views with their warmth.

Fairly sad now, I already miss NYC. The place where you can walk to many diverse restaurants around the corner of your place and see such a weird mix of people and kind of workout while you walk all the way to work. What is wrong with NY then?

There is no easy way to describe it but....if it is -2 Farenheit and you see many women with 10'' high heels, no sucks, and a miniskirt then you start wondering if you feel really comfortable being surrounded by these creatures, how fake can you be in order to pretend that you are not cold only because you want to look cool or show your boobs?

2. I am sorry, but trying to communicate here is sooo tough. To begin with, English is not my first language; to finish, it seems that it is not the first language of many Americans either.

3. While you are taking a walk to enjoy the view and listen your own thoughts, why do you need people arguing over their celphone why or why they should go to the party with pink or with black, plus they seem to want everybody to be aware of their sadly unfulfilled lives by talking the loudest they can.

4. Feeling under dressed in a restaurant that has amazing food? thanks, but no thanks.

Now that I am so far away I feel bad for how unhappy such an interesting place can seem (at least to my personal taste) there are way many other things to worry in life. To follow up with this thought, I made an appointment with the hairdresser and cut my very long but high maintenance hair to a length shorter than most New Yorker men...Life is so much enjoyable now that I can have more time to observe the real beauty when I don't have to worry about my appearance.

I just hope that the people that left a print in my heart and that share the same kind of thoughts as mine find the courage and means to be where they want. Thank you New York for being part of me, thank you to those fashion freaks to teach me how not to dress, and thank you for putting us in the most beautiful track.